When the rest of the country is sopping wet, dripping with disappointment, Llandudno proudly bathes in sunshine, like a last bastion of hope in an otherwise dreary world. This is why we love Llandudno.
Last week was largely typified by the rampant scouring of weather sites desperately trying to find somewhere dry. The general consensus was light to heavy rain, across the whole bloody country! When the weather turns this bad I generally turn to the wisdom of Derek to find us somewhere to go. After much deliberation and thought he said something along the lines of “let’s suck it and see, we’ll drive over to Llandudno and if it’s not good inland we’ll head for the coast.”
We did exactly that, and after seeing the state of the inland areas, covered in ominous black clouds we headed to the coast. Fortunately Derek’s thinking was vindicated and we had a glorious day. The only down side of going to Pen Trywn, was that it’s all a little hard. There were six of us out, Derek, Mark, Brad, Pat, Cat and myself. Ideally, we needed a good range of grades, but for now this would have to do. It was going to be a bit of a struggle for Cat and Brad, but they were up for the challenge.
The climbing was good, a bit of a mixture between traditional and sport. I got in Precious metal – E1 5b, as the first route of the day, which I was pretty chuffed about. Brad climbed well and after working out the moves, seconded Precious metal. Pat climbed the direct version of the route Gold digger – E2 5c, but was not too impressed with it and preferred Precious metal.
I’m not too sure what Derek and Mark climbed that morning. I know they did a couple of routes around E1, and got a bit of a sweat on, (maybe if I don’t put too much information in, one of them will write about it.)
We then moved onto some sport routes. Pat had a crack at Axle attack 7a+, working out the moves and taking the odd rest. No doubt, he’ll be back to climb it clean before long.
After a couple of minor sport routes just off the road, we headed off towards some new bolted routes. Derek, as ever with his ear close to the ground had been recommended a little area with some new sports routes. The area was the Upper quarry of Penmaenbach. The lower quarry is much more established but new routes have been added to the upper quarry and it was certainly worth a visit. In the evening sun we notched up all the routes from 5 to 6c in the area. After it was time to walk back to the car and drive back, replete after a packed day of climbing.