Our first taste of Lundy Island

After arriving on Lundy Island following a choppy ferry journey, excitement among the MOB was high.

Once we had dropped off our bags, and had a quick non-alcoholic drink at the Marisco tavern, it was time to get out on the cliffs and taste some adventure.

Pat and I headed off for the feature for which Lundy is best known, the Devil’s slide area. Upon our arrival, we were subjected to a rare Lundy experience, a queue!

The Devil’s slide was teaming with climbers. The Brixton climbing club were out in full force. Before we had even abseiled in we counted five teams at various stages on the Devil’s slide.

We decided to climb the classic Albion, VS 4cwhich was empty.

Albion, VS 4c - courtesy of Will Hardman

Albion, VS 4c – courtesy of Will Hardman

As it was our first route on the island, I let pat have the crux pitch and I led the easy start. The route was fantastic and I was a little gutted that I had let Pat have the good pitch. Pitch 2 is where all the good moves are. It’s well protected, with a nice crack for gear and laybacking. It was a great start to the trip!

After we had climbed Albion we decided to abseil back in for the Devil’s slide. Oddly enough, by the time we got to the start, the Brixton crew had all finished with the Devil’s slide and had opted for a mass ascent of Albion! Maybe they were being kind, or was it a safety in numbers thing?

Jacko on the Devil's slide, HS 4b - courtesy of Will Hardman

Jacko on the Devil’s slide, HS 4b – courtesy of Will Hardman

The Devil’s slide was brilliant. I linked pitch one and two together, Pat climbed the 3rd and I finished off the route with the airy traverse. The quality of the rock on Lundy, and particularly on the Devil’s slide area is fantastic. In a way I wished that I had climbed the Devil’s slide when HS was at the peak of my climbing level. What an exciting route it would have been! All in all a brilliant start to our climbing holiday!

Over the next week or so I shall be writing about the highlights of our trip! Remember to follow my blog or subscribe via email for any updates.


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